We saddled up, got into our harnesses and got moving shortly before midnight. We trucked along the bootpack on the Cowlitz glacier until we reached the bottom of Cathedral Gap. The loose stone and scree slope slowed our ascent and provided a little excitement in the opportunity for rockfall from the team ahead of us. We reached the top and rounded the shoulder to hit some firm snow with a not so great runout below. We stopped to strap on our crampons and grab a quick bite. We looked back to the east and saw a heavy harvest moon low of the horizon. After admiring the sky for a moment, we got moving again. We hit Ingraham Glacier very shortly after. We passed the tents of the camp at Ingraham flats. Headlamps and clanking and low conversation informed us that other teams were preparing for their climb. We passed the camp and followed the bootpack to a snowbridge over a crevasse. My first ever crevasse crossing and it was pitch black so I couldn't appreciate the moment properly; no yawning abyss from which I could shrink. We moved on towards the ridge Disappointment Cleaver.
Either the climbing rangers or Rainier Mountain Institue had set a handline along the bottom portion of the cleaver. A handline is a rope set to anchors in the rock and in the snow along difficult portions of the route. Climbers use a camming device on the rope to prevent slips from turning into falls. The drop off here didn't seem particularly heinous and the footing not particularly treacherous, so I'm not sure the reason for the handline. Since we didn't have any ascenders (camming devices), we moved along the route carefully. Nat ignored the fixed rope, I kept it running through my hand and I'm not sure whether Dan used it or not. We came round the rocky band and hit a upwards snow climb. This climb kept on for a 1000 vertical feet. The bootpack switchbacked it's way up the slope. The constant changes in direction made rope management fun. Good practice for future climbs.
Finally about 3 am we topped out on the last outcrop of the cleaver. A team was resting there when we reached the rocks. We settled in next to them. They left less than 5 minutes later. The wind had picked up. I wrapped myself in my puffy jacket and sat low to gain some protection from the wind, but I still shivered. We ate a quick snack again, and drank some water. While we rested, another team of climbers caught up to us, and started their break just as we stood up and started moving along. The top of the cleaver marked our entry to the Emmons Glacier. The eastern skyline started to light up orange presaging dawn for at least an hour. We marched upward and onward. Nat worked to make sure we followed the wands and the bootpack up the glacier's sides. Dan moved along slowly at the end of the rope. And I tried to minimize the pain to my feet.
I rented plastic boots from REI for the climb. I normally wear 12 or 12.5 shoes and boots. The plastic boots in size 12 fit too snugly which would slow circulation and lead to cold (and possibly frostbitten) feet in bad conditions. I asked for a pair of 12.5 boots; they didn't have any. At all. Not one pair of 12.5 plastics in their rental stable. So I tried on the 13's. They were, obviously, too big. They seemed to fit well enough at the time. Unfortunately the loose fit made my shins and the inside of my left ankle extremely unhappy. The plastic lip of the outer boots bruised and abraded the front of my shin (a condition called shin bang) and made it very uncomfortable for me to walk with my toes points straight uphill. Luckily climbing sideway to the slope is a valuable skill to have in the mountains. I got lots of practice walking sideways up the hill. It minimized the shin bang and let me concentrate on climbing instead of the misery inflicted on my shins.
Once on the glacier, the route goes pretty much straight up for two thousand feet. The trail made switchbacks to ease some of the grade a little and to work through the least creviced section of the route. Mainly we went straight up for the last two grand of elevation. Right at about thirteen thousand feet Dan started struggling a little bit. He had to stop and rest. He had a hard time catching his breath. His energy got low. The altitude really slowed him down. He soldiered on despite the difficulty and we reached the summit ridge at about 5:30 in the morning. We crossed into the summit crater (the crater of a real live volcano) and started tromping towards the true summit. We dropped the rope, and Dan and Nat left their packs near the ridgeline. We thought the hard part was done.
We were wrong.
Those last 300 feet to the true summit killed me. I don't know if I had switched into descent mode. Or if I was just a little out of gas. Climbing that last bit of mountain felt much harder than the last hour I had been moving. We made the summit and shared it with another crew of four climbers. We chatted. Got blasted by wind on the summit. Took pictures. Laughed. Looked around to the mountains and ranges we could see. The crystal skies gave us great visibility. Then it was time to go down.
We left the summit about 7 in the morning after refueling with food and water. The gravity assist on the down hill makes moving easier and faster. Every step brought us thicker air which gave us more energy. We dropped almost 2000 feet in the first hour of the descent. A brief rest at the top of the cleaver, a quick bathroom break and then more descending. As we got lower, the temperature began rising quickly. The sun's heat and the heat reflected back from the snow plus the heat radiated by the rocks meant we got warm fast. The snow started getting slushy. Foot ing got treacherous. And the threat of rockfall became very real. So we trucked it down the cleaver, moving as fast as we could to minimize our exposure to rock fall. Once we hit the Ingraham glacier, we started trucking a little bit faster. We had a wary eye on the icefall upslope from us. Ice fall can happen anytime, but warm weather makes icefall more common. Soon we reached Cathedral gap and descended back to the Cowlitz glacier. Aside from a brief rest at Ingraham flats we kept moving to minimize our exposure to rockfall. We got back to Camp Muir about 10 am in the morning, right at 10 hours from when we left.
Then we had to pack up and leave, which is part of the story I'll continue in the next few days.
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