Monday, October 23, 2006

Ratcheting it up

Sue took me out to Broughton Bluff on Sunday morning, just according to plan. We warmed up on a fun route (I'm not sure the name) that Sue thinks is a 5.8. The route has a funny side pull crux that lands you in a kind of "hands-free" pod. You have one or two balance moves (depending on your height) and then pull yourself up to what feels like a staircase. A great warm up route.

Then Sue put me on Classic Crack. Classic Crack is evil. Incarnate. Made manifest in rock. I barely made it up the route and take a short rest. Then I throw myself at Red Eye a few hundred times. I scramble up Red Eye, but I wore myself out on Classic Crack. Even with the rest, I have a hard time holding onto Red Eye's very positive handholds. I like the route but I just need to go up it when I have more energy. which means I have to get better at crack climbing. Which means fighting evil on it's own terms, i.e. climbing Classic Crack.

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